Rehearsals and romance, ribbons and roses, procession and obsession. Simone Rocha's Spring/Summer 2024 collection, titled the 'Dress Rehearsal', took place at the English National Ballet rehearsal space. The show was a symbolic ode to the night before a big event and the nerves that come with it, whether it be a performance, a fashion show, or a wedding ceremony. It is when a collective can reflect on how much work and effort has gone into an event.
The ballet core looks and rehearsal space were reminiscent of Black Swan. The film portrays the anxiety and pressure that Nina Sayers, a ballerina cast as the Swan Queen in her dance company's ballet, faces from worrying whether or not her performances will be "perfect". The film is at times unsettling, but the peach pinks and baby blues, delicate, flowy costumes, and the gracefulness of the dancers make the film visually romantic. It gives an inside look into the sport that is ballet; but despite requiring tons of effort and strength, it is often disregarded due to its association with femininity.
The dark and bare setting of Rocha’s SS24 show represents the raw emotions of fear and anxiety when transitioning from girlhood and unapologetic self-expression into the big event. In other words, from childhood to adulthood. Femininity is not taken seriously and is oftentimes labeled as "immature". We're set in a world in which, at a certain age, bows, lace, and tutus are meant to be put away in favor of more sophisticated clothing. This is the only way you can be taken seriously.
Instead of a stage or a typical runway—that places distance between the viewers and the subjects—the rehearsal space, which Rocha describes as "much more intimate", allows the audience to take a closer look at the detailed garments.
Instead of a stage or a typical runway—that places distance between the viewers and the subjects—the rehearsal space, which Rocha describes as "much more intimate", allows the audience to take a closer look at the detailed garments.
Motifs were ever so present on the runway. 3D roses made of taffeta were stitched onto tracksuits, while authentic, light pink roses were stuffed inside dresses—but were still visible thanks to the sheer fabric. Roses symbolize admiration, purity, and new beginnings, which link to Rocha’s romance and ballet-inspired collections. New beginnings are associated with the change that comes with marriage and growing up.
Ribbon bows were another recurring motif. While some looks had long bows trailing down, others had little bows scattered all over. Perhaps they were a witty way of symbolizing “tying the knot”. The bridal theme was confirmed by wedding-cake-inspired handbags and dresses, as well as bouquets made of fabric and clear beads.
The ballet flats and platforms—along with the ribbons and tutus—are all reflections of the fact that we're in the era of the "girl". It girl, strawberry girl, girl dinner: the "girl internet" has taken over. Although girl blogging and girl internet are typically exclusive to women, Rocha has made hyper-feminine garments available to male models, making femininity available to anybody willing to embrace it.
With spring being the season of new life and transition, Rocha's Spring 2024 collection symbolizes an unapologetic, bold shift to playful and dreamy clothing. The show is a visual dream that portrays fear but also lightheartedness. It encourages everyone to be carefree and expressive despite anxious feelings about what is to come.
Runway images from Vogue